Saturday, May 5, 2012

Saving Vietnam's Turtles

During a recent trip to Vietnam's Cuc Phuong National Park, I visited it's Turtle Conservation Center to see the wonderful work they are doing to save Vietnam's turtles from extinction.
Above is a critically endandered Vietnamese Pond Turtle (Mauremys annanensis) or Rua Trung bo in Vietnamese.  The Center raises them in captivity to be released in their native habitat in Central Vietnam.

Cuc Phoung National Park

Vietnamese Pond Turtle

Besides their captive breeding program, the Center is active with rescue and rehabilitation of injured turtles.

Cuc Phoung Turtle Conservation Center

  Above is another Vietnamese Pond Turtle.  I was extremely lucky to see such a rare species....and very impressed with the good work the Center does.

Asian Turtle Conservation Network

Here is a typical turtle hunters' camp.  In the foreground is a deadfall trap.....behind is the simple campsite.

Turtle Hunting in Vietnam

 
Yellow-headed Temple Turtle (Heiremys annandaii) is another critically endangered species used for turtle soup, Chinese medicine, and handicrafts made from it's carapace (shell).


 
Another trap.....this one directs turtles through an opening with a wire snare.  Simple, easy to construct.....and deadly.


 
Two of the most endangered turtles are found in Vietnam....the Vietnamese Pond Turtle......and the famous Giant Turtle of Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi.
Although turtles are relentlessly hunted, one species.....the Giant Turtle of Hoan Kiem Lake....is considered sacred and protected.


 
The Turtle Center in Cuc Phuong does not have a specimen...but has a lifesize model and educational display.
Here are Phil Gilbert and son Ben, UK naturalists, photographers, and my convivial travel and adventure companions, atop a
Swinhoe's Softshell Turtle  (Rafetus swinhoei)....also known as a Yangtze Softshell Turtle.  This is the largest freshwater turtle in the world, is critically endangered, and found only in China and Vietnam.  Some taxonomic controversy exists, with Vietnamese scientists wishing to identify the Hoan Kiem Turtle as a distinct species, (Rafeus leloii).


 
By now I hope you want to know more about Hoan Kiem Lake and it's famous Grandfather Turtle, Cu Rua in Vietnamese.
Hoan Kiem Lake is in the center of historic Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam.  It's name means Restored Sword Lake and legend has it that Emperor Le Loi used a magic sword in a successful revolt against the Chinese Ming Dynasty.  To honor the victory, Le Loi gave the magic sword, called Heaven's Will, to the Golden Turtle God, Kim Qui.  Above is the Turtle Tower...watching over the lake and the sacred turtle who still lives in the shallow, green water.

The legend depicted in ceramics.


 
Hoan Kiem Lake is a place for strolling, exercise and relaxing in crowded and noisy Hanoi.  The walk around the lake is about a mile....with nice views all around.

Noone knows how many Giant Turtles are in the lake.....they are rarely seen in the murky water.  Most say there is only one left...and that it brings great fortune if it shows itself to you.

My last day in Hanoi....on a hot and humid afternoon....I saw some ripples under this tree!  Could it be?  Would I get a photo?


 
A grainy and over-exposed shot, to be sure.  But, proof positive of my good fortune!
Below a photo....not mine...of the capture of Hoan Kiem's sacred turtle for some needed medical care.  Ironic, that the Giant Turtle is treated so deferentially, while the equally endangered Pond Turtle is being hunted to extinction.



Wikipedia photo
 
The story of the capture and treatment of Hoan Kiem's Turtle made all the media....including a BBC video.  I wish him well and will look for him on my next visit to Hanoi.

With me on this visit was my good friend, Vu Van Lien, Phd Entomologist, who works at the Vietnam National Museum of Nature.  I met Lien while working on his Earthwatch Institute Research Project, "Butterflies of Vietnam."  Phil Gilbert was also on that team...... Earthwatch friendships last far longer than the projects. 


Friday, April 27, 2012

5 Star Bird: Streak-eared Bulbul at the Furama Resort, Danang.

This Streak-eared Bulbul (Pycnonotus blanfordi) was my daily companion during a recent stay at the Furama Resort in Danang, Vietnam.
The Furama Resort, on China Beach overlooking the South China Sea  (now more properly called Danang Beach and the Eastern Sea) is truely a 5-star hotel and resort.  It not only has wonderful architecture, well appointed rooms, great restaurants,impeccable service.....but also a luxurious tropical garden. 
Furama Danang website
This hectare sized garden features a large lagoon pool and spa, and is festooned with a huge selection of tropical flowers, bushes and trees that attract the fauna normally missing at a beach resort in a large Asian city.
History of Danang on Wikepedia
The famous China Beach.  When I was there for a 3 day R&R in 1967 there were tents, picnic tables and warm beer......but I thought it was GREAT!
China Beach R&R Center
There are over 130 species of Bulbuls in the Pycnonotidae family.

 
There were many other birds in the garden....but "my Bulbul" sat on a branch a few feet from my balcony and sang every morning....what a great wake-up call!
Bulbul songs on Xeno Canto website
Birding in Vietnam is not easy.  Most species are very shy due to unrelenting hunting pressure.  The tropical garden at the Furama is an oasis for our avian friends.  They are protected and become less reclusive.
The Furama Resort is so photogenic that it was the site for a group of 50 photographers from Scott Kelby's Worldwide Photo Walk!
Here's a link to the winners.....there were over 30,000 photographers in over 11,000 locations!

 
In my scrubs waiting for the Vets With a Mission team bus to take us out to our rural free clinic.  We have built over 50 free clinics and field 2 or 3 humanitarian medical teams annually.   When in central Vietnam, we always stay at the Furama.

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Southern Black Racer

 The Southern Black Racer (Coluber constrictus priapus) is quite common throughout the Southern United States.
This non-venomous snake grows up to 60 inches and hunts during daylight, so is frequently seen.  

Saturday, April 14, 2012

Mergansers in the surf at Boca Grande Pass

Red-breasted Mergansers (Mergus serrator) feeding in the surf at Boca Grande Pass.

 Boca Grande Pass is the main channel from the Gulf of Mexico into Charlotte Harbor, Florida.  The Pass is between the southern tip of Gasparilla Island and the northern tip of Cayo Costa.  It is also a "hot spot" for tarpon fishing.

 Red-breasted Mergansers are large diving ducks that prefer feeding in salt water.  This group was after small fish very close to shore.

 A group of ten ducks, they appeared to hunt cooperatively at times....but were more successfull as individuals.

 What great swimmers...agile even in very shallow surf.

 A common sight in bays and lagoons, the Red-breasted Merganser shares it's name with two other Mergansers...the Common Merganser (Mergus merganser) and the Hooded Merganser (Lophodytes cucullatus).

 "GOT ONE!"


 Of "least concern" on the IACU Red List.

 Duck indentification is always a challenge!

 A few yards further offshore were a pair of mating West Indian Manatees (Trichechus ingunguis).

 Commonly seen on Gasparilla Island are Willets (Tringa semipalmata).  This one seemed quite interested in what the Mergansers were doing.


 Looking across the Pass toward Cayo Costa, we saw tarpon fishermen and a small group of Bottlenose Dolphins (Tursiops truncatus).  There are about 200 living in Charlotte Harbor.

It's always a great outing along Florida's Gulf Coast.  This young Laughing Gull (Larus atricilla) in first winter plumage also enjoyed the breezy and sunny afternoon.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Birding at SFO

On the way back from Asia, I had an overnight layover in San Francisco.  Stayed at the Airport Mariott and discovered a great birding spot right outside the hotel door!  The San Francisco Bay Trail provided some needed exercise after a long flight, and some great birding in the shallows along the bay.
Here is a Black-necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus).

 Google Earth overhead view of SFO International.  The shore to the south is lined with airport hotels and the Bay Trail.
The Trail covers the 500 mile shorline around the Bay.  I only got to walk about five miles, but it was really great.
 Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus).  Lucky to see during it's migration to Northern Canada.
Hope the Whimbrel is flying Business Class.  Those little seats in Economy are AWFUL!

 Northern Shoveler (Anas clypeata).  A fuzzy long shot with my 200mm zoom.
Northern Shoveller link

 Low tide and plenty to eat!
Duck Identification

On the wing.


Willet (Tringa semipalmata).
Willet link


 Lesser Scaup (Aythya affinis).
 This nice scene is a Benihana Restaurant along the Bay Trail in Burlingame, Ca.
House Sparrow (Passer domesticus).  Ubiquitous but welcome sight after 6 weeks in Vietnam, a country with a very reduced bird population.  The bombing and shelling during the war decimated the country's birds, and the recovery has been slow as all creatures are considered edible and hunted for food.
House Sparrow link

"Peeps" at a distance....Dunlins?  Sandpipers?  I can't really be sure.
"Peep" ID pdf

Purple Finch (Carpodacus purpureus).

Snowy Egret (Egretta thula).


This was the biggest shock on returning to the U.S. after 6 weeks in Vietnam....WOW!